Apu Jan is one of those stalwarts of London Fashion Week, one which never fails to deliver something new, whilst remaining true to its fairytale telling stylistics. Each season brings with it a new story to be told through the garments and for FW18 the theme ‘Drifting in a Million Stars” conjured images of galaxies, space and clouds before I was even through the huge brass doors of the Grand Temple.
The collection is heavily influenced by science fiction literature and the swirling colours depicted in galaxies viewed from lightyears away. As always, the Apu Jan silhouette is simple and timeless and knitwear is present throughout. The designer is known for their unique knitwear techniques and use of luxurious wools such as cashmere (the holy grail of wool), merino and lambs wool and can make these appear as thin as silk.
As with previous collections, the soundtrack to the show was provided by DJ Question Mark and a string orchestra to set the scene, ready for take off. I was a huge fan of the Apu Jan SS18 showcase and managed to bag a front row seat, this time I rocked up with a banging migraine (it was day 3 after all) and the kerfuffle and clanging of seats in the moments leading up to the show almost finished me off but I persevered, and I’m glad I did.
The collection was laden with intergalactic and swirling star prints which would have benefitted from an additional presentation format post show so guests could really appreciate the craftsmanship within the collection. The drum & bass music that accompanied the show created the perfect ambience for a collection that had some serious standout pieces including a hat that has Beyonce written all over it.
The palette of navy and black with the odd accent colour was simple enough that it led the focus to the expert craftsmanship and tiny details in each piece. Layered silk and elongated sleeve shapes are something we’ve come to expect from Apu Jan season after season and they were present for FW18. However a hint towards a sleeker silhouette made a play in the show too with a couple of styles leaning toward something more tailored to the female form.
Each look was paired with simple platform, lace up shoes and pared back, natural makeup accentuated by a slick of shimmering white highlight under the eyes. Models’ hair was scraped back into a tight, Chinois style topknot mirroring the simplicity of the shapes within the collection. In all honesty, Apu Jan is a show you go to, to appreciate and highlight the details. Those wonderful little details that can’t be appreciated until you see them in the flesh and it’s this that Apu Jan consistently does so well. There are no bells and whistles, no weird and wonderful shapes to make you gasp, just good old fashioned awesome design that works on and off the runway.